I've been going on and on about the project for a while, now and it occurred to me that I have never really shared anything about how the passion for collecting really got started for me. Those of you that know me, know that as well as the Waterfowl of North America project, I also have a collection of my own, of birds that I have personally harvested. I supposed the real draw to all this for me is the shear enormity of variety that exists in the world of waterfowl. Even when one looks at the micro version, that exists just in North America, the variety is huge. From species that only live in warm costal environs, to species that spend their entire lives at sea, leaving the ocean only to nest above the arctic circle.
Here is how it all happened for me. This is the event that lit the fire in my soul...
About 20 years ago, I was blessed to have a "rocket ship" cross the bow of my 14 V-bottom fishing boat. Two failed attempts and one lucky BB later I found myself searching the cattails for my prize. As I approached a small channel, I looked across and saw, what to this day still haunts all my visions of waterfowl. A single red eye, was peering at me from just inside the cattails. In what now can only be described as a bittersweet moment, I had my prize in hand. A drake Canvasback, my first.
That moment is engrained in my memory, forever. Not necessarily because of the trophy I took that day. But because of the fire that it started inside me. That was the moment that I understood what waterfowling meant to me. For me the sport of waterfowling is all about new places, new people and, new species.
I'm not much of a traveler, but the instinctual pull I feel to pursue new birds pries me from the comfort of my home and shop, and forces me into the world.
Currently I have 6 species of ducks left to pursue and 2 species of geese. I am hoping that a trip to the east coast and one to Florida, will help me to realize that goal. Currently I am in the planning phases of those two trips, hoping that I can make it happen next year.
To this day the Canvasback still reigns supreme in my eyes. Every bird I am blessed to harvest receives nothing less than my full respect, be it at the dinner table, or with its addition to my trophy collection. And much to my wife's dismay, most eventually find there way into the trophy room.
That is the passion that started this project. I suppose it is my dream to bring this to the general public, hopefully helping someone else to find, even if its a small piece, what I have found in the wild and wonderful world of waterfowl.
Later,
Kev
Sunday, February 6, 2011
Thursday, February 3, 2011
Still going strong....
This will be a short one...
We are still going strong folks. The Adopt-a-Duck program is under way. Off to a slow start, but we are getting some adoptions happening.
The key goal of this little project is to get the awesome variety that we as waterfowlers/waterfowl lovers enjoy, out to the masses. And one of the biggest obstacles in getting the display to the people, is the trailer. That's what the Adopt-a-Duck program is all about, getting that trailer.
Please, if your a duck hunter, or even just a fan of waterfowl, chances are you have some friends. Point them to the blog, and lets get this thing rolling.
Later,
Kev
We are still going strong folks. The Adopt-a-Duck program is under way. Off to a slow start, but we are getting some adoptions happening.
The key goal of this little project is to get the awesome variety that we as waterfowlers/waterfowl lovers enjoy, out to the masses. And one of the biggest obstacles in getting the display to the people, is the trailer. That's what the Adopt-a-Duck program is all about, getting that trailer.
Please, if your a duck hunter, or even just a fan of waterfowl, chances are you have some friends. Point them to the blog, and lets get this thing rolling.
Later,
Kev
Saturday, January 22, 2011
Its official... The Adopt-a-Duck program is underway!!!
Okay, here it is. The Adopt a Duck program is officially under way!!!
Here's how it works. Minimum adoption fee is $50. Email me or leave me a PM with the species you would like to adopt, and the amount you are willing to donate. From that point on the clock starts ticking. If no one else wold like to adopt that species within 72 hours, it's yours. If more than one person would like to adopt a species I will allow 3 counter bids per person, with the final bid going to the first persona to "file for adoption".
As species are claimed for adoption I will change the name to blue. When I get the "check", I'll change the text to black.
When you successfully adopt a species you will get a professional photo of that species once it is mounted and ready to be added to the collection. Along with the photo will be a small plaque, stating the name (common and scientific) of your species, that will match the tag that will be with the bird in the collection.
Just a reminder all funds from this little deal will go directly to help fund a trailer that will house the entire project and make it mobile, so that we will be able to drive it around to different events and hopefully expose as many people as we can to the vast abundance of waterfowl that we have in North America.
Also a reminder, any donation is just that. This is not a not-for profit charity. No tax benefits are implied or otherwise. And to be perfectly legal, all birds will remain in my possession.
Good luck! And as always, if you have any questions you are more than welcome to contact me.
Later,
Kev
American Black Duck
American Widgeon
Barrow's Goldeneye
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck
Black Scoter
Blue-winged Teal
Bufflehead
Canvasback
Cinnamon Teal
Common Eider
Common Goldeneye
Common Merganser
Fulvous Whistling-Duck
Gadwall
Greater Scaup
Green-winged Teal
Harlequin Duck
Hooded Merganser
King Eider
Lesser Scaup
Long-tailed Duck
Mallard
Mottled Duck
Northern Shoveler
Northern Pintail
Red-breasted Merganser
Redhead
Ring-necked Duck
Ruddy Duck
Surf Scoter
White-winged Scoter
Wood Duck
GEESE
Greater White-fronted Goose
Snow Goose
Ross's Goose
Canada Goose
Atlantic
Interior
Giant
Moffits
Vancouver
Dusky
Western
Richardsons/Hutchinsons
Aleutian
Taverner
Cackler
Brant
OTHER
Sandhill Crane
Tundra Swan
Saturday, January 15, 2011
ADOPT A DUCK (OR GOOSE)!!
Those of you that have been reading for a while know what we are all about, and how this thing is going to work (those of you that haven't are obviously invited to check out some of the older posts, to see what we are doing with this project). One of the major components of this project is to have a display that can be taken to different venues and be displayed. In order to accomplish that, one major piece of the puzzle has to be in place. A trailer.
This can't be an ordinary trailer though. In order to house the entire collection it has got to be fairly large, and obviously enclosed. These trailers aren't cheap! So in order to fill this need I have come up with a program that I think will be both fun, and help us accomplish the goal of purchasing/building a trailer.
Here's how it works...
Every pair of ducks (from here on out to save me from getting carpul tunnel I will call each pair "duck"), and each individual goose, will be put up for "adoption". Anyone can apply to "adopt a duck". Once a duck has has been adopted, it will no longer be available for adoption. Each duck's "adoption fee" will start at $50, of course if you wish to donate more you are welcome to at that time. If no one else want's to adopt that duck within 72 hours, it's yours for that price. However if someone else wishes to adopt the same duck I will offer the other person a chance to bid higher. I will accept only 3 competeing counter bids from each person, with the original bidder getting the last opprotunity. Each bidder will be informed of the competeing bid via email and will have 24 hours to counter. Highest bid gets to "adopt" that duck.
Everyone who succesfully adopts a duck, will get a professional photo of their adopted duck once it has been mounted, along with an etched plaque with your name, species name (common and scientific), and the date that you "adopted" your duck. A matching plaque will be displayed with each duck in the collection. Of course if you wish to remain anonomous, we can do that too simply naming you as "generous donor".
This is kind of a cool little program that was spawned by the needs of the entire collection, and will hopefully help us to reach our eventual goal.
I will be starting the adoption, on Saturday January 22, 2011. I will post a list of all the available ducks for up for adoption and at that point. I will mark off each duck as they are adopted, as well. Similar to the way I have done the other list.
A bit of disclaimer. The Waterfowl of North America Project is not a not-for profit charity, nor are we/I affiliated with any such group. All funds donated or otherwise, will be used at my discression for the furtherment of the project. No tax benefits are promised, implied or otherwise. Any donation is simply that, a donation. Also (legal disclaimer time) I will remain the actual owner of all said specimens, in order to comply with federal law. Hopefully that isn't to harsh, but I feel like everything needs to be on the table so anyone interested in this little program is fully aware of all details.
As is always the case, anyone wanting to ask questions is welcome to email me, or post comments here on the blog. I am always happy to answer them.
Plan your bidding strategy, and check back in on the 22nd for the list of birds.
Thanks you, and good luck.
Later,
Kev
This can't be an ordinary trailer though. In order to house the entire collection it has got to be fairly large, and obviously enclosed. These trailers aren't cheap! So in order to fill this need I have come up with a program that I think will be both fun, and help us accomplish the goal of purchasing/building a trailer.
Here's how it works...
Every pair of ducks (from here on out to save me from getting carpul tunnel I will call each pair "duck"), and each individual goose, will be put up for "adoption". Anyone can apply to "adopt a duck". Once a duck has has been adopted, it will no longer be available for adoption. Each duck's "adoption fee" will start at $50, of course if you wish to donate more you are welcome to at that time. If no one else want's to adopt that duck within 72 hours, it's yours for that price. However if someone else wishes to adopt the same duck I will offer the other person a chance to bid higher. I will accept only 3 competeing counter bids from each person, with the original bidder getting the last opprotunity. Each bidder will be informed of the competeing bid via email and will have 24 hours to counter. Highest bid gets to "adopt" that duck.
Everyone who succesfully adopts a duck, will get a professional photo of their adopted duck once it has been mounted, along with an etched plaque with your name, species name (common and scientific), and the date that you "adopted" your duck. A matching plaque will be displayed with each duck in the collection. Of course if you wish to remain anonomous, we can do that too simply naming you as "generous donor".
This is kind of a cool little program that was spawned by the needs of the entire collection, and will hopefully help us to reach our eventual goal.
I will be starting the adoption, on Saturday January 22, 2011. I will post a list of all the available ducks for up for adoption and at that point. I will mark off each duck as they are adopted, as well. Similar to the way I have done the other list.
A bit of disclaimer. The Waterfowl of North America Project is not a not-for profit charity, nor are we/I affiliated with any such group. All funds donated or otherwise, will be used at my discression for the furtherment of the project. No tax benefits are promised, implied or otherwise. Any donation is simply that, a donation. Also (legal disclaimer time) I will remain the actual owner of all said specimens, in order to comply with federal law. Hopefully that isn't to harsh, but I feel like everything needs to be on the table so anyone interested in this little program is fully aware of all details.
As is always the case, anyone wanting to ask questions is welcome to email me, or post comments here on the blog. I am always happy to answer them.
Plan your bidding strategy, and check back in on the 22nd for the list of birds.
Thanks you, and good luck.
Later,
Kev
Saturday, January 8, 2011
Field care
So you've done your homework, found some birds, setup the spread, and then........FINALLY, you've taken that trophy bird.
Now what? There are a couple of things that you can do now to help insure that your taxidermist has the best chance of getting your trophy back to you in the best possible shape. If you'll follow a couple of simple steps,not only will you be your taxidermists favorite customer, but your mounts will be the best they can be. Most taxidermists have a list of suggested practices on their website, you can always check there to see what your taxidermist prefers. Most however say pretty much the same thing. Here a few of the tips that I've found to be preferred by most professionals.
If at all possible retrieve potential trophies yourself. Dogs can be the greatest tool in the world for conservation, but they have a tendency to be hard on feathers. Even the softest mouthed dogs can inadvertently break, damage or remove feathers. That's not to say every bird retrieved by your dog is a total loss, or even a loss at all. Just be aware and get the bird from your dog before they have a chance to shake, or drop the bird and reposition it in their mouth. I have found that taking the bird from your dog while, it's still in the water helps.
Carry trophies by the feet. Never put a potential trophy on a neck strap! If at all possible get the bird wrapped up and placed in a gear bag or something similar (more on this later, so keep reading) so that it won't get damaged, bled on, or soiled by other birds. If a game strap is the only option, hang it by a foot, or both feet if possible.
If the bird is still alive, DO NOT wring it's neck. This will damage and remove feathers, and certainly compromise the final product. There are a couple of different ways to dispatch cripples humanely, and without damaging the bird. The best way I have found is to lay the bird on its stomach on something clean and hard, like a boat bench or solid ground. Kneel on the bird with your knee directly between the birds wings. You'll hear a "pop". This will break the birds back and quickly collapse the lungs. If done correctly the bird will be dead in a matter of seconds. Another way, doing essentially the same thing, is to squeeze the bird with your fingers, directly under the wings in what would be the birds "armpits". This is far less effective on large birds, takes more time and a considerable amount of effort, it is however incredibly effective on smaller birds like teal or bufflehead, where kneeling on them may cause more damage than good . Using either of the above methods does not damage any feathers and dispatches the bird quickly.
Once you have the bird out of the field, you 'll need to get it cooled off and frozen as quickly as possible. If it is still warm outside, I will put the bird unwrapped in the freezer for an hour max. to help remove as much heat from the body as possible. When wrapping birds for storage remember, air is the enemy. Air will dry the bird out, and you want to avoid this. Two things you definitely DO NOT want to wrap your birds in are, pantyhose, and/or newspaper. Pantyhose will do double duty to destroy your trophy. Allowing air to reach the bird, and snagging and tearing feather as well. Newspaper will actually absorb moisture and expedite the drying out process.
The best method I have found, and the one preferred by my taxidermist's is this-
Once the bird has cooled off, remove as much blood and soil as you can (this will be removed by the taxidermist later, but any you can get off now will help). Wrap the birds head and feet in wet paper towels. I like to soak three sheets in water, wring them out and mate each sheet with a dry one. Wrap the head and each foot with a pair of towels, wet side on the bird. Then tuck the wrapped head under a wing, this helps prevent possible damage to the neck or head, while in the freezer. Then place the bird in a plastic garbage sack (for ducks I like the 13 gallon white kind, but most anything will work). I like to start at the back of the bird and squeeze as much of the air out as possible, working my way to the front. Once I reach the front of the bird, I twist the top of the bag, similar to re-wrapping a loaf of bread. After twisting the bag around five or six times, I fold the remainder of the bag back over the bird, and repeat, until I run out of bag. Once I've run out of bag, I use duct tape to seal the bag and keep it wrapped tight. For bigger birds like geese or swans I just use the bigger black bags. Zip-lock or zipper freezer bags work too, just be sure to get as much air out as possible, as straw used to suck the air out can help. I like to use a magic marker to label my birds, once they've been wrapped so that I can easily identify them, without having to unwrap them. I label each bag with, species, sex, date and place taken, and anything else I might want to remember about that bird, or the hunt. I have never had the pleasure, but this could be useful, should you ever have your freezer checked by the fish and game department.
Wrapped like this birds can last for a year or so. However it's always best to get birds to your taxidermist as fast as possible. That way they can assess the bird, and get it properly wrapped and stored.
A little bit of care in the field can go a long way to getting you the best possible mount. In as much as I am always on the look out for trophy birds, I have one pocket of my gear bag designated as my "trophy kit". The kit is simply a collection of paper towels and plastic grocery sacks. I use one of the bags to wrap a dozen or so paper towels in, to help prevent them from getting wet, then I simply put that bag, into the others as I accumulate them. Generally these are the bags I get when I purchase blind "goodies", and other essentials, like Mt. Dew. Toilet paper can be substituted for paper towels, for those of you that are even more utilitarian than me. I use the paper towels to wipe down any badly soiled birds, and I also place a little bit in their mouth to help soak up any blood that may drain out. Then, after I let the bird cool down for a little bit, in a safe place, I wrap it up in a bag and put it in my gear bag for safe transport. Remember however to keep it accessible, in the event you are asked to produce the bird for a bag check.
Happy collecting!
Later,
Kev
Now what? There are a couple of things that you can do now to help insure that your taxidermist has the best chance of getting your trophy back to you in the best possible shape. If you'll follow a couple of simple steps,not only will you be your taxidermists favorite customer, but your mounts will be the best they can be. Most taxidermists have a list of suggested practices on their website, you can always check there to see what your taxidermist prefers. Most however say pretty much the same thing. Here a few of the tips that I've found to be preferred by most professionals.
If at all possible retrieve potential trophies yourself. Dogs can be the greatest tool in the world for conservation, but they have a tendency to be hard on feathers. Even the softest mouthed dogs can inadvertently break, damage or remove feathers. That's not to say every bird retrieved by your dog is a total loss, or even a loss at all. Just be aware and get the bird from your dog before they have a chance to shake, or drop the bird and reposition it in their mouth. I have found that taking the bird from your dog while, it's still in the water helps.
Carry trophies by the feet. Never put a potential trophy on a neck strap! If at all possible get the bird wrapped up and placed in a gear bag or something similar (more on this later, so keep reading) so that it won't get damaged, bled on, or soiled by other birds. If a game strap is the only option, hang it by a foot, or both feet if possible.
If the bird is still alive, DO NOT wring it's neck. This will damage and remove feathers, and certainly compromise the final product. There are a couple of different ways to dispatch cripples humanely, and without damaging the bird. The best way I have found is to lay the bird on its stomach on something clean and hard, like a boat bench or solid ground. Kneel on the bird with your knee directly between the birds wings. You'll hear a "pop". This will break the birds back and quickly collapse the lungs. If done correctly the bird will be dead in a matter of seconds. Another way, doing essentially the same thing, is to squeeze the bird with your fingers, directly under the wings in what would be the birds "armpits". This is far less effective on large birds, takes more time and a considerable amount of effort, it is however incredibly effective on smaller birds like teal or bufflehead, where kneeling on them may cause more damage than good . Using either of the above methods does not damage any feathers and dispatches the bird quickly.
Once you have the bird out of the field, you 'll need to get it cooled off and frozen as quickly as possible. If it is still warm outside, I will put the bird unwrapped in the freezer for an hour max. to help remove as much heat from the body as possible. When wrapping birds for storage remember, air is the enemy. Air will dry the bird out, and you want to avoid this. Two things you definitely DO NOT want to wrap your birds in are, pantyhose, and/or newspaper. Pantyhose will do double duty to destroy your trophy. Allowing air to reach the bird, and snagging and tearing feather as well. Newspaper will actually absorb moisture and expedite the drying out process.
The best method I have found, and the one preferred by my taxidermist's is this-
Once the bird has cooled off, remove as much blood and soil as you can (this will be removed by the taxidermist later, but any you can get off now will help). Wrap the birds head and feet in wet paper towels. I like to soak three sheets in water, wring them out and mate each sheet with a dry one. Wrap the head and each foot with a pair of towels, wet side on the bird. Then tuck the wrapped head under a wing, this helps prevent possible damage to the neck or head, while in the freezer. Then place the bird in a plastic garbage sack (for ducks I like the 13 gallon white kind, but most anything will work). I like to start at the back of the bird and squeeze as much of the air out as possible, working my way to the front. Once I reach the front of the bird, I twist the top of the bag, similar to re-wrapping a loaf of bread. After twisting the bag around five or six times, I fold the remainder of the bag back over the bird, and repeat, until I run out of bag. Once I've run out of bag, I use duct tape to seal the bag and keep it wrapped tight. For bigger birds like geese or swans I just use the bigger black bags. Zip-lock or zipper freezer bags work too, just be sure to get as much air out as possible, as straw used to suck the air out can help. I like to use a magic marker to label my birds, once they've been wrapped so that I can easily identify them, without having to unwrap them. I label each bag with, species, sex, date and place taken, and anything else I might want to remember about that bird, or the hunt. I have never had the pleasure, but this could be useful, should you ever have your freezer checked by the fish and game department.
Wrapped like this birds can last for a year or so. However it's always best to get birds to your taxidermist as fast as possible. That way they can assess the bird, and get it properly wrapped and stored.
A little bit of care in the field can go a long way to getting you the best possible mount. In as much as I am always on the look out for trophy birds, I have one pocket of my gear bag designated as my "trophy kit". The kit is simply a collection of paper towels and plastic grocery sacks. I use one of the bags to wrap a dozen or so paper towels in, to help prevent them from getting wet, then I simply put that bag, into the others as I accumulate them. Generally these are the bags I get when I purchase blind "goodies", and other essentials, like Mt. Dew. Toilet paper can be substituted for paper towels, for those of you that are even more utilitarian than me. I use the paper towels to wipe down any badly soiled birds, and I also place a little bit in their mouth to help soak up any blood that may drain out. Then, after I let the bird cool down for a little bit, in a safe place, I wrap it up in a bag and put it in my gear bag for safe transport. Remember however to keep it accessible, in the event you are asked to produce the bird for a bag check.
Happy collecting!
Later,
Kev
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
What makes a duck a "trophy"?
What makes a duck a "trophy"? That question has as many different answers as there are hunters. I for one like this quote from Aldo Leopold; "The value of any trophy from the field depends not on its size but on the magnitude of the effort expended in its pursuit".
Reasons for deaming a duck a trophy, range from something as simple as the first duck you have ever taken, to the first retrieve your dog makes, or their last. It could be a species that almost never makes it to your neck of the woods, or something like a hybrid or an unusal color variation. And there are those that we keep to remind us of special hunts, like the first time we have harvested a particular species, or a hunt with good friends/relatives.
Again, the reason's are endless. However there are some criteria that make a duck more suitable for mounting than others. Most of those have to do with the condition of the feathers, or plumage, and the overall condition of the bird.
More on plumage...
Most serious collectors and professional taxidermists will agree that birds taken later in the season will most likely be better candidates for mounting. Early in the year, most birds will have "pin feathers", or feathers that are not completely set in the skin. During the mounting process pin feathers have a tendency to come loose and/or fall out completely. If the resulting loss is bad enough it can render the bird unmountable. Some can be saved, but the resulting mount is almost always compromised, and a large majority of taxidermists will not accept the work, or at least have you sign a waiver saying that you will pay the fee even if the bird turns out to be of sub-par appearance. The majority of collectors looking to establish a collection similar to the one I am trying to assemble with the Waterfowl of North America project, will not even consider a bird for taxidermy until after Christmas time or even later in some cases.
Another factor to consider is the age or maturity of the bird itself. Sometimes this can be very hard to determine, but there are a few things to look for, that will help.
One big thing to look for is brown or otherwise off color feathers where there should be another color. Fully plumed and mature Shovelers for example should have an all white breast. Some immature birds will have a few brown feathers mixed in with the white ones, giving it a a spotted appearance. Another instance would be brown feathers in the side pockets (the area where the wing tucks up against the body). This is readily apparent on most of the diving ducks, where the body is normally black.
Other birds are a bit easier to tell when they reach maturity. Seaducks and some divers will spend a few years in different phases of immature plumage. For most seaduck drakes the first year of life is spent looking almost identical to a hen, then they start to develop the brighter plumage more synonymous with drakes, after a few years. Mature birds will have more contrasting colors, and complete tracts of feathers. This will go a long way to making the mount more pleasing and something that you can be proud of for years.
Bird damage...
Another factor for determining a bird that will eventually led to a quality mount, is the overall shape that the bird is in after it is harvested. The very nature of hunting has a tendency to inflict some inherent damage on the birds that we could potentially select for mounting. Broken wings and other misc. shot damage, are very common. Missing and damaged feathers, blood and soil stains, and collateral damage from hitting the water etc. are all things that can happen to our potential trophies.
Most of this stuff is not a a problem for a qualified taxidermist. The one exception is missing or broken feathers. While not exactly a deal breaker, as they can be replaced with donor feathers if you have another bird of the same sex and species, this can be on the upper end of the difficulty spectrum. Even with donor feathers, the exact color match is almost impossible on big wing primaries. Again however, different poses can be used to hide some of the damage. So if you are willing to compromise or allow your taxidermist to pick the best pose, you can still have something to be proud of.
Shot damage to beaks and feet is not a problem. Most taxidermists will use "cast" or fake bills when mounting birds, this eliminates the long term problem of bill shrinkage, and also makes it possible to mount a bird that has severe damage to its bill. Shot damage to feet is also easily taken care of.
Broken bones, can make it more difficult to make the bird look natural in some poses, such as flying mounts, but they do not generally pose a problem for a qualified taxidermist. Most will recommend a different pose to help mask some of the damage, in cases where the damage would be evident in the finished product.
Blood and mud stains are also not a problem. The process used to skin and was h the birds in preparation for mounting will remove most if not all of the stains. It's always better to remove as much of the blood as possible before storing the bird, in the freezer, but a little bit is not an issue.
All of this can be a bit overwhelming for the average joe in the field or even once we get the birds home. Fortunately for us we have an incredible resource in this pursuit of the ultimate trophy... YOUR TAXIDERMIST!!
Every taxidermist I have ever dealt with is more than to take a look at your bird and do a triage of sorts. They can immediately tell you if the bird is what you are looking of in a trophy,and possibly what poses would work best, for your bird. A good taxidermist is your best friend in all this. Make friends, be polite, and remember, this is how they make their living, so respect their professional knowledge, as well as their time.
To continue with the theme of trophy selection, I will be doing a couple of different segments, in the near future, on bird care in the field, trophy care, and even a few bird profiles including hot spots around the country for getting those trophies, and maybe even a guide or two that can help you out with your quest.
Later,
Kev
Reasons for deaming a duck a trophy, range from something as simple as the first duck you have ever taken, to the first retrieve your dog makes, or their last. It could be a species that almost never makes it to your neck of the woods, or something like a hybrid or an unusal color variation. And there are those that we keep to remind us of special hunts, like the first time we have harvested a particular species, or a hunt with good friends/relatives.
Again, the reason's are endless. However there are some criteria that make a duck more suitable for mounting than others. Most of those have to do with the condition of the feathers, or plumage, and the overall condition of the bird.
More on plumage...
Most serious collectors and professional taxidermists will agree that birds taken later in the season will most likely be better candidates for mounting. Early in the year, most birds will have "pin feathers", or feathers that are not completely set in the skin. During the mounting process pin feathers have a tendency to come loose and/or fall out completely. If the resulting loss is bad enough it can render the bird unmountable. Some can be saved, but the resulting mount is almost always compromised, and a large majority of taxidermists will not accept the work, or at least have you sign a waiver saying that you will pay the fee even if the bird turns out to be of sub-par appearance. The majority of collectors looking to establish a collection similar to the one I am trying to assemble with the Waterfowl of North America project, will not even consider a bird for taxidermy until after Christmas time or even later in some cases.
Another factor to consider is the age or maturity of the bird itself. Sometimes this can be very hard to determine, but there are a few things to look for, that will help.
One big thing to look for is brown or otherwise off color feathers where there should be another color. Fully plumed and mature Shovelers for example should have an all white breast. Some immature birds will have a few brown feathers mixed in with the white ones, giving it a a spotted appearance. Another instance would be brown feathers in the side pockets (the area where the wing tucks up against the body). This is readily apparent on most of the diving ducks, where the body is normally black.
Other birds are a bit easier to tell when they reach maturity. Seaducks and some divers will spend a few years in different phases of immature plumage. For most seaduck drakes the first year of life is spent looking almost identical to a hen, then they start to develop the brighter plumage more synonymous with drakes, after a few years. Mature birds will have more contrasting colors, and complete tracts of feathers. This will go a long way to making the mount more pleasing and something that you can be proud of for years.
Bird damage...
Another factor for determining a bird that will eventually led to a quality mount, is the overall shape that the bird is in after it is harvested. The very nature of hunting has a tendency to inflict some inherent damage on the birds that we could potentially select for mounting. Broken wings and other misc. shot damage, are very common. Missing and damaged feathers, blood and soil stains, and collateral damage from hitting the water etc. are all things that can happen to our potential trophies.
Most of this stuff is not a a problem for a qualified taxidermist. The one exception is missing or broken feathers. While not exactly a deal breaker, as they can be replaced with donor feathers if you have another bird of the same sex and species, this can be on the upper end of the difficulty spectrum. Even with donor feathers, the exact color match is almost impossible on big wing primaries. Again however, different poses can be used to hide some of the damage. So if you are willing to compromise or allow your taxidermist to pick the best pose, you can still have something to be proud of.
Shot damage to beaks and feet is not a problem. Most taxidermists will use "cast" or fake bills when mounting birds, this eliminates the long term problem of bill shrinkage, and also makes it possible to mount a bird that has severe damage to its bill. Shot damage to feet is also easily taken care of.
Broken bones, can make it more difficult to make the bird look natural in some poses, such as flying mounts, but they do not generally pose a problem for a qualified taxidermist. Most will recommend a different pose to help mask some of the damage, in cases where the damage would be evident in the finished product.
Blood and mud stains are also not a problem. The process used to skin and was h the birds in preparation for mounting will remove most if not all of the stains. It's always better to remove as much of the blood as possible before storing the bird, in the freezer, but a little bit is not an issue.
All of this can be a bit overwhelming for the average joe in the field or even once we get the birds home. Fortunately for us we have an incredible resource in this pursuit of the ultimate trophy... YOUR TAXIDERMIST!!
Every taxidermist I have ever dealt with is more than to take a look at your bird and do a triage of sorts. They can immediately tell you if the bird is what you are looking of in a trophy,and possibly what poses would work best, for your bird. A good taxidermist is your best friend in all this. Make friends, be polite, and remember, this is how they make their living, so respect their professional knowledge, as well as their time.
To continue with the theme of trophy selection, I will be doing a couple of different segments, in the near future, on bird care in the field, trophy care, and even a few bird profiles including hot spots around the country for getting those trophies, and maybe even a guide or two that can help you out with your quest.
Later,
Kev
Saturday, January 1, 2011
Sprucing up the Blog a bit...
I'm new at this blog thing, but I fancy myself a quick learner. I've tried to add some links and a few pictures. I'll be adding more as time goes on, and as I climb the learning curve.
A bit about some of the links I've added...
8 Gauge Studios-
Justin Harrison, is a friend of mine that I met while hunting sea ducks in Alaska. We've kept in touch since that hunt, and have vowed to get back together one day. A promise I intend on keeping. Justin is an avid waterfowler, and fellow collector. His passion for waterfowl extends beyond the blind to a bunch of different waterfowl related ventures. Turning calls, training retrievers, and carving decoys. One of his blocks, a Bluebill drake, will grace my spread for the remainder of this season. The decoy is part of a traveling spread that Justin has put together as part of a literary project he is working on. Several different decoys, are making their way around the country with different waterfowlers, and each hunter will do a write up about their experience. Justin has been cataloging the travels of his first carved bird, a mallard drake, that he named Magellan on his blog . Justin's Blog. I've had a good time keeping track of the different adventures, you may want to check it out as well.
Darin Gardner Taxidermy-
If you've been following along, you've heard mention of Darin more than once. Again, he did the project a huge solid, when he stepped up to the plate and accepted all the taxidermy work to make this thing happen.
I've also had the pleasure of hunting with Darin, as well as getting to know him as a friend. Darin is an avid upland game, and big game hunter. He loves to hunt the upland birds over his versatile dogs, as well as chasing turkeys in the spring. He is also and avid user of traditional archery equipment, in his quest for big game.
When he's not out hunting he makes good use of his time recreating memories for hunters and fishermen at his shop in Northern Utah Darin's website. I personally have a small sampling of Darin's work on display at my house, which I hope to make larger in the near future.
Widlfowltraveler-
Started to help perpetuate the hobby of waterfowl "collecting", based in the tradition of similar organizations for big game, like Safari Club International, and Boone and Crocket club. While similar membership in the various societies is based on members collecting specimens of each of the recognized species. Broken down into 4 different "societies", Puddler, Diver, Salty, and Honker, with a Master society for those that have completed all of the other societies as well as few other birds.
I have been a member of the website and it's corresponding forums for years. I am personally a member of the Diver society, and am only a few birds away from the others, with only 6 birds remaining to complete the Master list.
Lake Bonneville Layout Boats-
Tony Smith has been a personal friend of mine and fellow collector for several years now. He has been a huge supporter of the project since it's inception, along with being my hunting partner.
Tony owns and operates Lake Bonneville Layout Boats. I've personally had the pleasure of hunting from his various craft, since the very beginning. I have taken several species for my personal collection, as well as for the project, from one of Tony's boats. By far the best layout's on the market Tony's boat are a must have for the serious waterfowler, looking to expand their hunting experience.
Later,
Kev
A bit about some of the links I've added...
8 Gauge Studios-
Justin Harrison, is a friend of mine that I met while hunting sea ducks in Alaska. We've kept in touch since that hunt, and have vowed to get back together one day. A promise I intend on keeping. Justin is an avid waterfowler, and fellow collector. His passion for waterfowl extends beyond the blind to a bunch of different waterfowl related ventures. Turning calls, training retrievers, and carving decoys. One of his blocks, a Bluebill drake, will grace my spread for the remainder of this season. The decoy is part of a traveling spread that Justin has put together as part of a literary project he is working on. Several different decoys, are making their way around the country with different waterfowlers, and each hunter will do a write up about their experience. Justin has been cataloging the travels of his first carved bird, a mallard drake, that he named Magellan on his blog . Justin's Blog. I've had a good time keeping track of the different adventures, you may want to check it out as well.
Darin Gardner Taxidermy-
If you've been following along, you've heard mention of Darin more than once. Again, he did the project a huge solid, when he stepped up to the plate and accepted all the taxidermy work to make this thing happen.
I've also had the pleasure of hunting with Darin, as well as getting to know him as a friend. Darin is an avid upland game, and big game hunter. He loves to hunt the upland birds over his versatile dogs, as well as chasing turkeys in the spring. He is also and avid user of traditional archery equipment, in his quest for big game.
When he's not out hunting he makes good use of his time recreating memories for hunters and fishermen at his shop in Northern Utah Darin's website. I personally have a small sampling of Darin's work on display at my house, which I hope to make larger in the near future.
Widlfowltraveler-
Started to help perpetuate the hobby of waterfowl "collecting", based in the tradition of similar organizations for big game, like Safari Club International, and Boone and Crocket club. While similar membership in the various societies is based on members collecting specimens of each of the recognized species. Broken down into 4 different "societies", Puddler, Diver, Salty, and Honker, with a Master society for those that have completed all of the other societies as well as few other birds.
I have been a member of the website and it's corresponding forums for years. I am personally a member of the Diver society, and am only a few birds away from the others, with only 6 birds remaining to complete the Master list.
Lake Bonneville Layout Boats-
Tony Smith has been a personal friend of mine and fellow collector for several years now. He has been a huge supporter of the project since it's inception, along with being my hunting partner.
Tony owns and operates Lake Bonneville Layout Boats. I've personally had the pleasure of hunting from his various craft, since the very beginning. I have taken several species for my personal collection, as well as for the project, from one of Tony's boats. By far the best layout's on the market Tony's boat are a must have for the serious waterfowler, looking to expand their hunting experience.
Later,
Kev
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